Haider Ackermann has landed at Tom Ford as the brand’s new creative director and will start work immediately with his debut show set for March in Paris as part of the autumn/winter 2025 season. “It is with tremendous pride that I will seek to honor the legacy of Tom Ford, a man I have long admired and have the utmost respect for,” the 53-year-old designer said in a statement.
Ackermann follows in the footsteps of Peter Hawkings, the former Senior Vice President of Tom Ford menswear, who stepped into the top spot following Ford’s departure last spring. Hawkings only showed two collections before unexpectedly stepping down from the post in July. Now, Ackermann will take over, remaining based in his home city of Paris as he creates womenswear, menswear, accessories, and eyewear for the Tom Ford brand.
Ackermann takes a bow at the Berluti menswear spring/summer 2018 show in 2017.
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Ackermann’s return to the fashion spotlight is a welcomed one, as the Colombian-born French designer has kept a fairly low profile since shuttering his eponymous brand in 2020. In the past four years, he designed a couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier and did a few one-off creations for his favorite clients, like Tilda Swinton and Timothée Chalamet. Before that, however, he ran his own label for almost two decades, while also taking on the job as creative director of Berluti for three seasons between 2016 and 2018. There was once a time when the rumor mill had him succeeding Maison Margiela following his retirement in 2009, as well as John Galliano at Dior. Karl Lagerfeld even gave his support to Ackermann succeeding him at Chanel, though that of course never came to pass. With the top spot at Chanel once again open, many thought Ackermann would finally get his chance at the French house, though the fashion world will now have to move on from that dream.
Tilda Swinton in Haider Ackermann at The French Dispatch premiere at Cannes Film Festival in 2021.
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Timothée Chalamet in Haider Ackermann at the Bones and All premiere at the Venice Film Festival in 2022.
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Of course, Ackermann’s Tom Ford appointment conjures its own fantasies. How will he combine his somewhat minimalist, expertly tailored slim silhouettes with Ford’s overt glamour and sensuality? In many ways, it feels like a natural pairing. The two share a love for color, and draw towards luxury, often unexpected fabric choices. Ackermann already proved his effectiveness at interpolating house codes with his Gaultier collection.
Ford himself is optimistic about the appointment, saying in a statement, “I have long been a great fan of Haider’s work,” he said. “I find both his womenswear and menswear equally compelling. He is an incredible colorist, his tailoring is sharp, and above all, he is modern. We share many of the same historical references, and I could not be more excited to see what he does with the brand. I suspect that I will be the first on my feet to applaud after his show in March.”
Like Ford, Ackermann also already has a network of established celebrity fans. Chalamet and Kylie Jenner are believed to have originally met when both attended his Gaultier show. Will they return to sit front row for his Tom Ford debut? Only time will tell.
